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Twelve years after our honeymoon, we returned to Iceland in winter. Ten days exploring an extreme and magnificent land, where ice, wind and light create breathtaking landscapes. This trip was an immersion in another world, made up of powerful contrasts and golden light. An intense rediscovery, which we recount here step by step, with our own words and Marc's images.

Our stage-by-stage roadtrip for this stay in March

Reykjavik (2 nights) - City walks & snowstorms
Mývatn (1 night) - Volcanic landscapes and the frustration of too short a stay
Seyðisfjörður (1 night) - Eastern fjords and a remote atmosphere
Jökulsárlón (2 nights) - Icebergs, seals & lights from the end of the world
Vík (3 nights) - Black beaches, cliffs, auroras & spectacular scenery
Keflavík (1 night) - Iceland's last moments before returning home
Must-haves for your suitcase

→ REYKJAVIK [ 1-(2) nights(s) ]

We didn't arrive in Reykjavik under the best of auspices: a flight delay due to the wind, and a downpour to welcome us. The tone seemed set. After this eventful arrival, we spent a lovely first evening in the city and enjoyed an excellent dinner that warmed us up. The next morning, the weather remained capricious, with showers, sleet and strong winds, but we made an attempt to go out anyway.

In the changing light, we stroll through the streets of the city centre, stop off at Braud & Co for a delicious cinnamon roll (a real comfort!), then climb to the top of Hallgrímskirkja, the famous cathedral. If you've been following us for any length of time, you'll know: we love heights. And here, the 360° view of Reykjavik and the misty mountains is well worth a few gusts of wind.

On the way back down, we stroll along Rainbow Street - Skólavörðustígur, its colourful houses and shops, before taking refuge for a hot coffee at Te & Kaffi. At last, some sunshine! We take the opportunity to walk down to the seafront, admire the elegant structure of Harpa, the opera house with its geometric design inspired by Icelandic basalt, then continue on to the Sun Traveller - a metal sculpture facing the horizon, a symbol of hope and freedom.

But the respite was short-lived. Early in the afternoon, we learn that our domestic flight to Akureyri has been cancelled due to the storm. It was a cold shower. We spent the early afternoon in contact with Virginie, our long-standing travel agent, reprogramming our itinerary, adjusting our flights and accommodation, our heads full of uncertainty. Our minds were divided: amazed by the unique atmosphere of the capital, but worried that we wouldn't be able to reach the north the next day... Iceland reminded us from day one that here, it's nature that decides.

Where to stay and eat in Reykjavík

Fosshotel Reykjavík
A large, modern hotel, simple and efficient, perhaps a little too impersonal and frequented by groups for our taste. But its location is ideal, and our room perched in the tower offered a superb view of Harpa and Hallgrímskirkja cathedral.

Fiskfélagið – The Fish Company
We fell in love with this warm and elegant restaurant, perfect for our first evening. A cosy atmosphere, attentive service and a delicious fish soup as a starter: a real treat.

1892 Restaurant
A simple, unpretentious place where we dined on our second evening. We were tired and less cheerful, but it was good and comforting.

Braud & Co
Without a doubt the best cinnamon rolls we've had in Iceland. A must for pastry lovers!

Te & Kaffi et Café Loki
Two cafés perfect for a warm break with a relaxed atmosphere and quality drinks.

Reykjavik Roasters
A trendy café, popular with locals, for an excellent espresso in a more bohemian atmosphere.

→ MYVATN [ 1 night ]

It was with relief - and after more than 7 hours waiting in Reykjavik's tiny domestic airport - that we finally took off for the north of Iceland. The atmosphere was a mixture of excitement and fatigue, but as soon as we landed in Akureyri, the dry, icy air swept away our weariness.

We took possession of our faithful travelling companion: a Dacia Duster 4x4 fitted with studded tyres, which are essential at this time of year. Dusty, as it was known, was to become our best ally as we tackled Route 1 all the way to the south of the country, through icy patches, slush and desert landscapes.

Unfortunately, the storm of the previous few days disrupted our programme: we had to cancel a night in Mývatn, and our visit to this very special region was cut short... Frustrating, as this part of Iceland deserves so much attention. But even in just one day, the raw charm of the volcanic landscapes won us over.

Before heading back to our hotel, we stop off at Goðafoss, the waterfall of the gods. Even under a leaden sky, we marvelled at its power. After two days in the city and a frustrating blizzard, getting back to Icelandic nature gave us an immediate sense of freedom and the feeling that the journey could really begin.

The light is already fading as we drive along the north-western shore of Lake Mývatn. We finally reach our hotel, nestling above the frozen lake, with the feeling that we've changed worlds.

A gentle awakening in our cocoon bathed in magnificent winter light. The sky is gradually clearing, like a promise... What we don't know yet is that the sun will never leave us for the rest of our journey. After so much uncertainty about the weather, this simple fact motivates us to devour the day.

We set off to explore the south-east of Lake Mývatn, a land shaped by fire and ice. Our first stop is the Skútustaðagígar pseudocraters: small rounded hills formed by steam explosions thousands of years ago. The landscape is superb, bathed in low-angled light, but the wind blows so violently that it becomes difficult to walk straight - let alone climb the craters...

Our next stop is the Dimmuborgir lava field, literally ‘the black castle’. This labyrinth of tortured rock formations and tunnels frozen in time seems straight out of a Nordic fairytale. There's a strange, almost mystical atmosphere here. Despite the gusts of wind, it's fun to lose yourself for a moment, alone in the world.

We then passed the foot of the Hverfjall volcano, but decided not to climb it again this time. We had climbed it twelve years earlier, and the weather conditions weren't really in our favour due to violent gusts of wind.

After a pit stop in Reykjahlíð for an impromptu picnic, we set off again for the Hverir geothermal site at the foot of the Námafjall mountain. Here, the ground smokes, rumbles and bubbles. Pools of boiling mud sputter at our feet, and the smell of sulphur stings the nostrils. The setting is surreal, almost lunar.

Before leaving the region, we try to make a diversion towards Krafla, an active volcano with which we had wonderful memories on our previous trip. Unfortunately, the road is closed in winter, so we had to turn back. A little disappointed, but happy with this intense day.

We leave the Mývatn region in the early afternoon, with images of Hverir still smouldering in our minds. The road ahead takes us across the north-eastern highlands, a breathtaking expanse of desert. The weather was fine, but the wind was still blowing hard, sweeping the snow across our path. All around us, the landscape is white, silent, lunar... There's no one there - just us, our Duster 4x4 crunching on the hard-packed snow, and this infinite horizon that we seem to be alone in contemplating. The solitude of the Icelandic road in all its splendour. We don't talk much, just soak up this unique sensation of total freedom. This stretch of road will go down as one of the finest visual and sensory memories of our trip.

Where to stay and eat in Mývatn

Fosshotel Mývatn • our 1st favourite ❤️
We stayed at the Fosshotel Mývatn, which was a real favourite. Built from dark wood and perfectly integrated into the landscape, this hotel offers a warm, designer and contemporary atmosphere, with an exceptional view over the lake.

Our room was spacious and uncluttered, with a direct view of the frozen waters of Mývatn, which we could admire as soon as we woke up. The hotel is perfectly situated for exploring the natural wonders of the surrounding area.

We also really enjoyed the hotel's restaurant, which offers fine local cuisine in a cosy setting, with large picture windows to take advantage of the light on the lake. We can only imagine how bright the restaurant is on a June evening.

→ SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR [ 1 night ]

In the late afternoon, a stopover in Egilsstaðir is in order. Stomachs are crying out for food and, unfortunately, all the restaurants in Seyðisfjörður are closed that evening. It's a shame, as there were a number of places we wanted to visit. Egilsstaðir is not particularly charming, but it doesn't matter - the main thing is to regain our strength.

We then set off again, once again alone in the world, as the day slowly fades. The pass leading to Seyðisfjörður is once again one of the most beautiful roads of the trip. The sky turns navy blue, the wind blows, and the lunar landscapes envelop us. No snow on Egilsstaðir, but as we climb the immaculate whiteness comes back to greet us.

Finally, after a last winding descent into the fjord, Seyðisfjörður comes into view. Tucked away at the bottom of the fjord, this town with its air of Iceland's Wild West welcomes us in the twilight. The colourful facades, the calm of the place and the mountains that surround it create a beautiful picture.

The next morning, we enjoyed a good breakfast in the hotel's quiet breakfast room. The village is still asleep, and from the garden we catch a glimpse of a seal in the harbour, discreet but very much there, like a little suspended moment. Before hitting the road again, we take a stroll through the quiet streets of Seyðisfjörður. The village is quiet, colourful and almost empty at this time of day. We push on to the little blue church, simple and charming, towering above the metal-roofed houses. It's time to get back on the road, heading south. A long day of driving awaits us through the landscapes of eastern Iceland.

Where to stay and eat in Seyðisfjörður

Hotel Aldan
We spent the night at the Hôtel Aldan, a group of beautifully renovated historic houses ideally located in the heart of the village. Our room was simple but comfortable, with a lovely view of the surrounding mountains. Special mention should be made of the copious and varied breakfast served in a neighbouring building: local produce, homemade bread, eggs, fruit... a perfect way to start the day.

Unfortunately, all the restaurants in the village were closed when we visited. This was a disappointment, as we had our eye on several places that we would have liked to try out: Skaftfell Bistro, Norð Austur – Sushi & Bar, Aldan Restaurant and Kaffi Lára El Grillo Bar. But that's for another time, perhaps.

→ JÖKULSÁRLÓN [ 2 nights ]

We take the same route back to Egilsstaðir, this time in the middle of the day. The sky is clear and the winter light superb. We then follow the east coast, almost alone on this road that winds between the fjords. The landscape unfolds, raw and uncluttered, until we reach the small port of Djúpivogur. From here, the road moves away from the fjords and follows a spectacular stretch of coastline. Cliffs, black sand beaches, craggy peaks and low-angled light accompany us as we head south.

Just before reaching Stokksnes, the road skirts the Hvalnes promontory, a site within the Hvalnes Nature Reserve. It's a place of raw beauty, where the Atlantic Ocean laps a beach of black pebbles, framed by sheer cliffs. An old orange lighthouse stands isolated on its rock, battered by the winds. It is above all the contrast between the elements that is so striking here: the grey-blue of the sea, the black of the sand, the soft green of the moss in places, and the sharp peaks of the mountains.

Marc captured one of his best drone shots here, showing Route 1 curving elegantly through the stretch of sand and pebbles, bordered on one side by the sea and on the other by the calm waters of a lagoon. This aerial viewpoint reveals all the finesse and solitude of the route, in a setting that seems to have come straight out of another world. It's a must for anyone who loves landscapes that are both graphic and powerful.

Leaving the craggy landscape to the east, the road skirts a peaceful inlet: Papafjörður. This discreet fjord, less busy than its neighbours, offers a calm and luminous landscape. When we passed, the sky was clear and the sun, still low, was hitting the mountains head-on, sculpting their relief with marked shadows. There's no need to stop here, just the raw, almost silent beauty that gently accompanies the drive south.

Last stop of the day and not the least... the Stokksnes peninsula. The site is accessible from the main road, and an unsurfaced track leads us there, dominated by the impressive Vestrahorn mountain, which seems to emerge suddenly from the black plain. Access to this private site is via the Viking Café, where you pay an entrance fee (ISK 1,000/car). This gives access to several paths, a small reconstructed Viking village (originally created for a film shoot), and a black sandy beach often battered by the winds. That evening, the weather was calm and the winter light gilded the relief. The place is both dramatic and silent, perfect for contemplation. It's a great way to start the day before arriving at Jökulsárlón, where the next stage of our journey begins.

We arrive at our accommodation for the next two nights: the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Hotel (see “Where to sleep” section below). It’s love at first sight. The architecture is sleek, modern, and blends beautifully into the region’s stark, arid landscape. Inside, everything is designed for comfort and views — large picture windows, minimalist furniture, and a cosy, subdued atmosphere that contrasts with the wild elements outside.

The next morning, we head out without rushing. The sun is shining, the air is clear and still. Having such weather here, on the edge of Vatnajökull, feels like a rare gift — so we take our time. We revisit the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in perfect conditions. Icebergs drift slowly by, in an awe-inspiring silence broken only by the occasional crack of the ice. The morning light dances on the water’s surface, offering Marc stunning photo opportunities.

We then walk along the channel to reach Diamond Beach. The chunks of ice washed ashore on the black sand look like translucent sculptures, shaped by the wind and waves. We stroll for a long time among these “diamonds,” soaking in the moment and the raw, fragile beauty of the place.

In the afternoon, we set off to explore three other glacier tongues of the Vatnajökull, all accessible via short hikes. The first leads us to Fjallsárlón, a smaller glacial lagoon than Jökulsárlón, but just as striking. The easy trail takes us to a viewpoint where we can watch chunks of ice slowly calving from the glacier. There are fewer people here, and the atmosphere feels wilder.

The second, also accessible from Route 1, brings us closer to Kvíárjökull. We stand alone before this impressive glacier tongue.

We then get back on the road to reach Svínafellsjökull, another glacier tongue well known among photographers. A bumpy track leads us there, but the walk is short. Once we arrive, the landscape is breathtaking: the ice forms sharp ridges streaked with volcanic ash. The wind is blowing, but we stay for a long while, taking it all in.

The next morning, we enjoy a hearty breakfast at the Glacier Lagoon Hotel, with a clear view of the glacier under the soft light of dawn. The atmosphere is peaceful—just right for easing into the day before an eagerly awaited activity. We’ve booked an excursion with IceExplorer to visit an ice cave in the heart of the Vatnajökull. The tour starts from Jökulsárlón, where a guide takes us in a super-jeep to the edge of the glacier. The ride itself already feels like an adventure, with its lunar landscapes, bumps, and crevasses.

Once on site, the visits are organized in small, well-spaced groups. The atmosphere is calm and respectful, with everyone taking time to soak in the wonder. The ice cave is truly impressive: its deep blue walls, sculpted by water and cold, create a unique and magical setting. It’s not a physically demanding visit—anyone can enjoy the experience without much effort, which makes it accessible to all.

Where to stay and eat in Jökulsárlón

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Hotel • Our second favorite ❤️
This recently built hotel stands out for its understated and elegant architecture, perfectly integrated into the surrounding environment. Clean modern lines blend harmoniously with raw materials that echo the region’s agricultural heritage—wood, stone, metal… Every detail is thoughtfully designed and tastefully executed. Inside, the atmosphere is warm and calming, and the large picture windows allow you to fully take in the spectacular glacier views.

We also had an excellent dinner at the hotel restaurant, which serves delicious cuisine highlighting local ingredients. And the breakfast? One of our favorites of the entire trip: generous, varied, and full of flavor, with a wide selection of sweet and savory options, fresh bread, homemade jams, and vegetarian-friendly choices—all enjoyed in a bright dining room overlooking the untouched nature outside.

→ VÌK [ 3 nights ]

After our icy adventure deep within Vatnajökull, it’s time to hit the road westward. Before crossing the vast black sand plain, we make our first stop at Hofskirkja, a small church with a turf roof nestled at the foot of the mountains. As the last Icelandic church built using this traditional method, it blends perfectly into the landscape. Surrounded by its peaceful cemetery with moss-covered graves, it exudes an almost magical atmosphere. The place is quiet, intimate, and timeless.

We then cross the impressive plain of Skeiðarársandur: a vast, almost surreal black sand desert, born from volcanic deposits and glacial floods that have surged down from Vatnajökull. This flat landscape, swept by the wind and bordered by steep mountains, marks a striking transition between the glaciers and the southern lands.

A little further on, we take a detour to admire Fjaðrárgljúfur, a breathtaking canyon carved by the Fjaðrá River. Even in winter, its rugged cliffs offer spectacular views from the observation platforms. The paths can be slippery at times, but the walk remains accessible.

Before reaching Vík, we make a final stop at the Eldhraun lava field, a remnant of the cataclysmic 1783 Laki eruption. Covered by a thick carpet of green moss, this fossilized field stretches as far as the eye can see: a landscape both chaotic and enchanting, almost mystical.

We spend three nights in Vík, giving us plenty of time to explore this iconic region of South Iceland at a leisurely pace. On our first morning, we climb up to the small church in Vík, perched on the hill, where we enjoy panoramic views of the village, the cliffs, and the Atlantic Ocean. The sky is clear, and the low sunlight highlights the red roofs and black beaches — a beautiful introduction.

We then head down to the black sand beach of Víkurfjara, which is calmer than its famous neighbor Reynisfjara. From the shore, you can clearly see the Reynisdrangar — those basalt columns rising out of the sea. According to local legend, they are trolls caught by the sunrise while trying to drag a ship to shore.

We finish the morning with a visit to the famous Reynisfjara Beach, known for its spectacular basalt columns, cliffs teeming with seabirds, and, of course, its rough sea. Despite the beauty of the place, caution is essential: the “sneaker waves” are very real here.

We continue our journey to Dyrhólaey, the peninsula offering a stunning 360° view, with natural arches, endless beaches on one side, and the Reynisdrangar visible in the distance. The wind is strong here, but the spectacle is well worth it.

Early in the afternoon, we reach Skógafoss, a massive and spectacular waterfall, then take the staircase alongside the cascade up to the Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail. We follow it to Steinbogafoss, a smaller but very beautiful waterfall. This stretch makes us want to come back in summer to explore more of this valley.

To close this full day, we return to Reynisfjara to watch the sunset. The low light transforms the cliffs and basalt columns, giving this already breathtaking place a whole new atmosphere.

Our night in Vík held a wonderful surprise. After several unsuccessful attempts earlier in the trip, luck finally smiled upon us. Around 9 PM, we received an alert for aurora activity. Wasting no time, we bundled up warmly, jumped into Dusty, and set off in search of a clear spot away from the village lights. The sky was clear, the conditions perfect. Settled in the peaceful Icelandic countryside, we witnessed a subtle yet enchanting light dance, green curtains waving above the mountains.

The next morning, we take our time. After the late night the evening before, thanks to the northern lights, the day starts off gently. Our first destination: Kvernufoss, a waterfall less known than its neighbor Skógafoss, but just as impressive. Tucked away at the bottom of a small canyon, it’s reached after a short walk from the Skógar museum. Its charm lies in its tranquility, far from the crowds, and the chance to walk behind the curtain of water, in an almost secret atmosphere.

The afternoon is devoted to (re)discovering two classic waterfalls of southern Iceland: Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi. The first, famous for its path that goes behind the waterfall, offers a breathtaking sight despite the crowds. The second, hidden behind a rocky wall, requires wading through water to reach its spectacular little gorge. Marc didn’t hesitate to get up close, getting thoroughly wet to capture the power and beauty of these falls.

We then head back toward Vík, making one last stop at the Dyrhólaey lighthouse. This time, no aurora alert appears, so we take the opportunity to turn in early, recharging our batteries for the final day of the trip.

Where to stay in Vík

Hôtel Kria
We spent 3 nights at Hotel Kria, a clean but rather unremarkable place located right along Route 1, which can cause some noise. If you stay here, be sure to request a room on the mountain side to enjoy a bit more peace and a restful night.

In hindsight, we would have chosen to spend two nights in Vík and one night at the UMI Hotel, a little further west along the road, to avoid back-and-forth trips while enjoying a more refined and pleasant setting.

→ KEFLAVÌK [ 1 night ]

We set our alarms early to hike to the wreck of the DC-3 plane, an iconic spot in southern Iceland. The story goes back to 1973, when this US Navy aircraft had to make an emergency landing on the black sand beach of Sólheimasandur after running out of fuel (or due to a fuel tank switch error, depending on the version). All crew members survived, and the wreck has remained there ever since—isolated and battered by the wind.

The hike is about 7 kilometers round trip, roughly 50 minutes each way, over flat, straight terrain—somewhat monotonous but easily accessible for anyone in good shape. We weren’t the first to arrive but early enough to enjoy a unique moment alone around the plane, bathed in stunning morning light. The contrast between the metal carcass and the black beach, in that silent atmosphere, was striking.

We left as soon as the first bus arrived, now dropping off groups a few hundred meters from the wreck, which unfortunately breaks the isolated feel of the experience.

From the outside, Faxi Bakery looks unassuming, tucked quietly along Route 1. But as soon as you step through the door, a warm, sweet aroma wraps around you—the scent of freshly baked pastries. Inside, a generously stocked counter makes choosing difficult… tarts, cakes, cookies, and other Icelandic treats vie for our attention. In the end, the temptation of one last cinnamon roll won out. Soft, perfectly spiced, and still warm, paired with a good cup of coffee, it marked the perfect, almost ritual pause before hitting the road again toward the end of our journey.

We leave Route 1 near Selfoss after a final stop at Bónus, the famous Icelandic supermarket chain. It’s the perfect opportunity to slip some tasty souvenirs into our bags: goodies and volcanic salt… The sky slowly clouds over as we begin the last stretch of our journey westward.

The Reykjanes Peninsula, wilder and often overlooked on classic itineraries, welcomes us with its black lava landscapes, desert-like expanses dotted with moss, and eerie rock formations. On the southern road, we drive almost alone in the world, immersed in an austere and captivating atmosphere.

Our first stop is Seltún, an impressive geothermal site. Here, the ground steams, bubbles, and hisses. Pools of gray mud, sulfurous springs, and mineral deposits in shades of yellow, red, and ochre create an almost surreal landscape. Wooden walkways allow visitors to get close while respecting the site’s delicate nature.

We then pass through Grindavík, and the contrast is striking. The village seems frozen in uncertain waiting. Many houses stand abandoned, shutters closed, some even marked with evacuation notices. Cracks streak the roads and grounds, a testament to the immense power beneath our feet. Grindavík has been evacuated multiple times recently, especially during the latest eruption in March 2024, when lava flowed dangerously close to the village. Seismic activity remains intense, and just as we arrive, an official SMS warns us not to linger in the area. The atmosphere grows heavy, almost surreal. We continue on without stopping, respecting the uneasy silence of a place deeply marked by the volcano’s fury.

Three weeks after our return, on April 1, 2025, a new eruption occurred, prompting another evacuation of Grindavík and the temporary closure of the Blue Lagoon. It’s a volcanic reality that’s hard to forget once you’ve been so close.

Our final stop was imagined as a relaxing interlude, and it lived up to that expectation despite the volcanic tension: the Blue Lagoon. We arrived at nightfall, under a fine, persistent drizzle, with steam rising in the moonlight. The atmosphere was almost mystical. Few people were around at this hour, an unexpected calm in a place often crowded with visitors. The milky water, the enveloping warmth, the black rocks surrounding us… A suspended moment to close this journey of ice and light.

Where to stay Keflavík

Hotel Konvin
For our last night, we stayed at the Konvin Hotel in Keflavík, a purely practical choice. The hotel was undergoing renovations during our visit, and the surroundings—an area of wasteland and industrial buildings—did little to brighten the mood already darkened by the weather and the imminent end of our trip. The only advantage: an early breakfast service, perfect for early morning flights. Next time, we would definitely choose Hotel Berg, which is more charming and better located to end the stay on a more pleasant note.

•And you, are you ready to set off and discover this island of ice and fire?•

We would like to warmly thank Virginie, our freelance travel agent at TUI, for her availability, valuable advice, and her perfect understanding of our wishes. A big thank you also goes to Terra Nova, our local partner, for the quality of the on-site organization and the expertise that enriched every step of our itinerary.

→ Must-haves for your suitcase

For a winter trip to Iceland, you need to be prepared for all kinds of weather—from sunshine to blizzards, including rain and everything in between.

Neck gaiter, beanie, and gloves
Waterproof and warm snow boots
Hand and foot warmers
Warm clothing layers
Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants
Thermos with good hot tea
Lightweight, easily portable shoe crampons (because it can really get slippery)
Headlamp
Camera

The articles and photos we publish on this blog are our own, unless otherwise stated. So please be fair and don’t use them without contacting us first…